The attractive peak of the Puntal de la Caldera (3223m) with the Laguna de la Caldera nestling at it's feet makes a spectacular setting. Many times in winter during Alpine Winter Skills Training courses we have sat atop it's narrow summit after ascended via it's east ridge from the Collado del Ciervo. A fine route, much better and more interesting, in my opinion, than the higher, bulky form of Mulhacen (3482m) to it's immediate east.
We have longed to complete the full winter traverse, east to west, of the Puntal de la Caldera but lack of time, dodgy snow or bad weather have thwarted efforts so far. This coming winter we intend to do it. As a preliminary to the winter trip, yesterday I did a recce from the west starting from the broad summit of Loma Pelada (3181m).
Let me say first of all that the whole area consists of loose, broken rocks and scree. The main feature of the ridge west of the summit though is a huge intervening cliff with a notch to it's west. This looks to be the crux. Andy Walmsley in his guidebook "Walking in the Sierra Nevada" (Cicerone Press) suggests a traverse is made into the notch. over loose and steep ground and suggests that care should be taken here. Too right! I spent the best part of an hour trying this before getting fed up and ending up sliding, falling and stumbling my way downward to the main path linking Loma Pelada to the Refugio de la Caldera. Back up to the Loma Pelada col. Start again!
Looking back to Mulhacen from the west ridge
The second effort had me staying as close to the summit ridge as possible. This involved weaving in and out of rock barriers sometimes on the north and sometimes on the south side. Some exposure is felt but the main problem comes with loose rock all over the place. There is a short steep step which may require the security of a rope for the less experienced. There are some great nooks and crannies around here to sit awhile and admire the tremendous views northwards and down to Laguna la Larga.
Eventually the "notch" is reached and the crux is met. A pleasant surprise. Move round to the left and there are some sloping ledges easily scrambled up until the crest is reached above the obstacle. There looks to be some more "entertaining" options available for the more adventurous too.
Ascending easy slabs north of the ridge
The crest leads easily to the summit and a descent down the well known east ridge was made to the Col del Ciervo. An interesting summer excursion but spoilt by poor rock. In winter's icy grip with the ridge well endowed with snow and ice, well that's a different matter altogether? Can't wait!