We did the Mulhacen (3479m) ascent starting a way below the Hoyo del Portillo parking. By early October the bus to the Alto del Chorillo does not run consistently, so a one-day ascent from this lower trailhead would have been mighty tough and would have greatly limited our route options. Our fine guide, Jens, first took us along lesser-known trails to the well-run Refugio Poqueira at 2500m, where we spent the night - we even slept a few hours in that crazy dormitory world! - and the following day up to the summit with a circular route back down to the transport.

Jens is immensely experienced, an effortless and considerate leader, and very patient. A very cool guy to spend two days with. He has climbed all over the world, and not just climbed: had conditions permitted he doubtless would have had us skiing up Mulhacen and surfing back down it. Apart from the sense of security he gave us, his knowledge of the mountain meant we could choose alternative routes at every stage, whether to see the unmanned refugio higher up, get a close-up view of the north face, or gaze down at the Trevelez valley.

We were blessed with fabulous weather, the summit chill did not materialize, the overnight at the refugio meant we were passably acclimatized, and we got to experience the mountain in all its beauty, beyond - I sense - what might be possible in a one-day tour. The communication and organization at the Spanish Highs office end was exemplary; always fast responses to our many email questions which gave one real confidence that this is an outfit that knows its stuff. Mountains are not playgrounds, so it's hard to overstate how important this is. Brilliant trip.