The trek started as normal from the south near the Ventura trailhead above the spa town of Lanjarón in the Alpujarras (4WD required). First night was camp was by the superbly situated Refugio de Caballo alongside the laguna of the same name. A spectacular sunrise was followed by a short ascent to the summit of the Cerro de Caballo (3009m), the Sierra Nevada's most southerly 3000m peak.
Sunrise at the Refugio de Caballo
Then, on the ridge and over Tajos Altos and the Tozal del Cartujo before arriving at the Refugio Elorrieta. This is a superb situation.
Instead of following the normal route dropping down to Lagunillas de la Virgen and then rising up to the Refugio Carihuela why not try the high route via the Tajos de la Virgen ridge? Some simple scrambling is required (Grade 1) with the first impasse by passed on the right and the second on the left. This gives a much more pleasant route, less re-ascent and superlative views.
Tajos de la Virgen ridge
The night was spent at the refugio at the Collado de Carihuela. A great place for seeing the sunset and sunrise. Following morning, remembering that the highest is not necessarily the best our group then ignored the peak of Veleta (3394m) and traversed NE via the spectacular "Paso de los Guias" to climb Cerro de los Machos. This is one of the best vantage points for mountain vistas in the whole of the Sierra Nevada.
Summit of Cerro de los Machos
N.B "Paso de los Guias" is a narrow path of some 30m across a rock face with chain attached for security
Paso de los Guias
Then it was down to the old road on on past the Crestones and Raspones to traverse over Loma Pelada to the Refugio de la Caldera. With bad weather forecast for the afternoon the group decided to stay there. As an afternoon "excursion" they traversed onto the north face of Mulhacén via the "Gran Vasar", enjoying the dramatic situations.
On the Gran Vasar of Mulhacén
Next morning after traversing over the highest peak in mainland Spain, Mulhacén (3482m) they pitched camp by Laguna Hondera at the delightfully located valley of Siete Lagunas.
On Mulhacén summit
In the afternoon and with light packs they ascended Alcazaba (3371m) from the head of the valley via a short scree gully.
Iced up stream, Siete Lagunas
Back to camp at Siete Lagunas and an early night before the following days short trek back to a pickup at the high Alpujarras village of Trevélez.
Sunrise from campsite by Laguna Hondera, Siete Lagunas
We run these high level treks between April and December (inclusive) throughout the year. More details.
Ice at Chorreas Negras below Siete Lagunas
The traverse of the Sierra Nevada is a superb trip to do. It offers great hiking, many beautiful sights and scenes, and a very special experience of the conditions and culture of the Sierra Nevada. The proposed 5 day trip can only be accomplished (by normal mortals) if previously acclimatised. Otherwise I'd plan 6 or maybe 7 days. Doing it from East to West (as per most propositions) might be more efficient as from West to East. Clearly I would recommend the traverse to anyone.
I thoroughly enjoyed Javier as guide. He is knowledgeable and experienced in the Sierra Nevada, has a very pleasant and helpful disposition, and is cautious yet adventurous. He creates an atmosphere in which one wants to explore/hike. Javier knows what he knows and is confident, and he is open to new ideas and other experiences. That requires natural self-confidence, which he has. I would recommend Javier to anyone as a guide.
The services and network of SpanishHighs are more than sufficient to have a great experience. I would recommend Spanish Highs without hesitation.
Robert Kuhfus 5 Nov 2013 at 8:08am_