Access

By Car

From the main Granada ring road (Circunvalación) follow the well signposted mountain road to Sierra Nevada (A-395). This leads to the main ski resort at Pradollano. At km30 and just before entering the resort turn left following signs to Hoya de la Mora and Albergues de Granada. At km35 and at 2500m altitude, the road ends. There are car parks on either side of the road. This is the Hoya de la Mora.

After new snowfall the access road to the Hoya de la Mora can become blocked and is the last road to be cleared and opened by the ski lift company. In this case you can turn right at km31 and follow the signs to a large car park at Telesilla de las Nieves. This is a little below the Hoya de la Mora and necessitates a short uphill walk (30 mins) following the car park access road N for 100m before tuning S onto the main access road.

On weekends and fiestas this area can become heavily congested with families eager to toboggan down the slopes leading to the car parks. The police at times restrict numbers and close the road. An early start is essential.

Albergue Universitario Sierra Nevada

Telephone: +34 958 480 122 Website: www.alberguesierranevada.com/ Email: [email protected]

This guarded hostel is situated at 2500m near the Peñones de San Fransisco and adjacent to the Hoya de la Mora. Very useful if you want an early start to the mountaineering routes in the Coral del Veleta or if embarking on a long ski tour and only 300m away from the ice climbing at Cascada de los Militares

It is open all year, has serviced accommodation, restaurant, café, and a leisure lounge with a large fireplace.

Access to Col de Carihuela

Access for the next few routes all leave the Hoya de la Mora and ascend the broad NNW slopes of Veleta. Pass either side of the statue, “Virgen de las Nieves” and L of the chairlift station “Telesilla de la Virgin”. There are always plenty of trails and even the edges of the “Aguila” ski piste can be used to easily ascend to the 3100m northern shoulder of Veleta named “Posiciones del Veleta”. It is frequently very windy and icy hereabouts with huge cornices eastwards into the Corral del Veleta.

Descent from here back to the Hoya de la Mora in bad weather is easy. Just follow the outer edge of the ski pistes and reverse the route of ascent.

For ski tourers, a better descent is to drop N into the upper bowl of the Barranco de San Juan, until an escape L at 2500m follows rising slopes back to the Virgen de la Nieves.

Laguna de las Yeguas (2,882m) to the Fraile de Capileira (3,160m)

Grade PD+

Approach from Laguna de las Yeguas and climb the short but steepening slope to emerge right south of the Fraile de Capileira pinnacle

Tajos de la Virgen ridge

Grade PD

• Height gain 900m to Collado de Cariguela. 150m to Refugio Elorrieta
• Time 6hrs (3hrs to Collado + 3hrs to Refugio Elorrieta)

A classic ridge route of varying difficulties, with superb views in all directions, all above 3000m. Difficult to escape from once committed.

From the Hoya de la Mora head S towards the prominent statue and monument of the Virgen de las Nieves. Follow the outer edge of the Aguila ski piste, which is crossed at 2900m onto a shallow ridge line that leads to the Posiciones de Veleta at 3100m (2hrs). Then follow a slightly rising ski road on the W flank of Veleta that crosses two major ski pistes before trending slightly downhill to the Collado de Cariguela (1hr).

Start the ridge proper by climbing Puntal de Loma Pua (3234m). Many parties bypass this on the right hand side and gain the ridge beyond. From here there is a delightful snowy ridge crest interspersed with easy rock sections.

The first crux is met after 30 mins. A rock tower blocks the way (3228m). There are two options here. The first is to easily climb up the tower until 20m below the top and then traverse slanting ledges in an exposed situation on the right hand side. The second option traverses steep snows left of the tower before climbing steeply up to regain the ridge beyond at a small notch.

Easier going follows on a broader ridge. Pass left of the rocky 20m high gendarme, known as the Fraile de Capilera, and make a descending traverse to the col before another rock step (3191m) bars the way. Take a traverse line left for 50m before climbing up for 5m and taking a narrow rake heading back right 30m to the ridge line, above the step. From here the ruined Refugio Elorrieta (3160m) is easily attained via a blocky ridge (6hrs from Hoya de la Mora).

Descend at first N and then NE from the Refugio. After 10 mins cross a steep convex slope which traverses below Tajos de la Virgen (N.B there have been accidents here, see appendix – avalanche risk!). Descend gradually until the snow covered Embalse de las Yeguas is passed. A slight rise to the Collado de las Yeguas, before dropping down through the paraphernalia of the ski resort to Borreguilles. From here it’s an easy return along a ski trail to the start point.

Please note the possible considerable avalanche danger in crossing the slopes below the Tajos de la Virgen ridge late afternoon!