POST

Winter Mountaineering on Alcazaba (3371m), Sierra Nevada

August 20, 2017

Access

There are 3 main routes:

(1) Via the Hoya de Portillo ranger station above Capileira (3hrs) but depends on getting a car to the 2200m start point in the forest. Little ascent and the easiest route in good conditions.

(2) Via the Acequia route (3hrs). Not recommended if snow and ice below 2500m as this route will involve traversing angled slopes. Hard on the old feet!

(3) The Poqueira Gorge. From the electric station on up the valley head. Climb up to Cortijo thomas and then on up and left to the hut (4hrs). This is the most sheltered way in poor conditions.

Routes

Alcazaba NE face

Alcazaba NW face (via Gran Espolon)

1st Ascent - 15th February 1965 Carlos Vazquez Canas/Alejandro Gonzalez Approach via Cueva Secreta. Ascent is a classic. Follow the main obvious ridge (the right line on the photo below). At first there is steep 55 deg ice for 300m. Thereafter there is mixed ground of IV and V and involves some delicate pitches. There is frequent verglas.

Alcazaba N face (via NE ridge)

1st Ascent - February 1956 Zapata/Olmedo Approach via Puntal de Vacares (1hr) or via Siete Lagunas (1hr). Where the ridge abuts against the main north face of the mountain, take a slanting line rightwards onto the north west face before heading directly up the first main break. This is mixed ground with passages of IV. Keep up until above the level of the Tajos de Goteron and then move back left onto the true NE ridge of Alcazaba, which is followed to the summit.

Alcazaba S face (via Siete Lagunas and El Colaero)

1st Ascent - Unknown From Siete Lagunas follow the valley NW and upwards towards its head. Before reaching the ridgeline at Puntal de Siete Lagunas look right. A break in the cliffs will be seen. Go steeply up heading for this break. A small step at half height may be problematic and if iced up may push the grade to AD. Otherwise it is steep snow to the col and easily on to the summit (3hrs from Siete Lagunas). Descend via the normal route.

Alcazaba via Tajos Goteron

1st Ascent - 2nd March 1952 Joaquin Fernandez/Alejandro Melgarejo/Manuel Martos/Juan B Ladron de Guevara. Approach either via Siete Lagunas (1hr) or from the Cucharacha and over the Puntal de Vacares(3hrs). Steep snow with tha Tajos de Goteron on the right up to the summit.