Access

By Car

From the main Granada ring road (Circunvalación) follow the well signposted mountain road to Sierra Nevada (A-395). This leads to the main ski resort at Pradollano. At km30 and just before entering the resort turn left following signs to Hoya de la Mora and Albergues de Granada. At km35 and at 2500m altitude, the road ends. There are car parks on either side of the road. This is the Hoya de la Mora.

After new snowfall the access road to the Hoya de la Mora can become blocked and is the last road to be cleared and opened by the ski lift company. In this case you can turn right at km31 and follow the signs to a large car park at Telesilla de las Nieves. This is a little below the Hoya de la Mora and necessitates a short uphill walk (30 mins) following the car park access road N for 100m before tuning S onto the main access road.

On weekends and fiestas this area can become heavily congested with families eager to toboggan down the slopes leading to the car parks. The police at times restrict numbers and close the road. An early start is essential.

Albergue Universitario Sierra Nevada

Telephone: +34 958 480 122 Website: www.alberguesierranevada.com/ Email: [email protected]

This guarded hostel is situated at 2500m near the Peñones de San Fransisco and adjacent to the Hoya de la Mora. Very useful if you want an early start to the mountaineering routes in the Coral del Veleta or if embarking on a long ski tour and only 300m away from the ice climbing at Cascada de los Militares

It is open all year, has serviced accommodation, restaurant, café, and a leisure lounge with a large fireplace.

Access to Posiciones del Veleta

Access for the next few routes all leave the Hoya de la Mora and ascend the broad NNW slopes of Veleta. Pass either side of the statue, “Virgen de las Nieves” and L of the chairlift station “Telesilla de la Virgin”. There are always plenty of trails and even the edges of the “Aguila” ski piste can be used to easily ascend to the 3100m northern shoulder of Veleta named “Posiciones del Veleta”. It is frequently very windy and icy hereabouts with huge cornices eastwards into the Corral del Veleta.

Descent from here back to the Hoya de la Mora in bad weather is easy. Just follow the outer edge of the ski pistes and reverse the route of ascent.

For ski tourers, a better descent is to drop N into the upper bowl of the Barranco de San Juan, until an escape L at 2500m follows rising slopes back to the Virgen de la Nieves.

Access to Corral del Veleta

Many routes start from the deep valley of the Corral which lies beneath the impressive N face of Veleta. In early or late season you can crampon down the slanting rake known as the Veredon Superior del Veleta. Care is required as the walls are almost vertical beneath.

If there are large cornices then access to the Veredon will have to be made via abseil. There is an abseil point installed further up the ridge crest and some 30m height above the ski road. An orange sign on a rock marks the place. 2- 50m ropes will be sufficient. Keep crampons on for when you join the Veredon.

Routes

Veleta - Canuto de Veleta

Grade AD-

Climb leftwards missing the initial rocks in the bottom half of the couloir. Attain the couloir and climb straight up. Steep but it has been frequently skied (by experts only!). This can be a very popular route so an early start is recommended.

Finish. Best finish is to traverse south from the col, then climb directly up to the summit of Veleta (3394m). The route is called “Fidel Fierro” and is again at AD (rock VD) standard. The way is well way-marked by crampon scratches.

Veleta - Arista de las Campanitas

Grade AD

Veleta N Face (via Vuelo del Aguila)

Grade ED

1st Ascent - 28th January 1973 Javier Casanova/Rafael Moleon

The climb consists of 6 steep pitches between IV and V grade. After the 2nd pitch there is a traverse to the right for 20 metres. On the 6th pitch you meet a small overhang (V), which continues with an airy horizontal traverse to the right. This pitch climbs a big inclined crack rightwards until the ridgeline is met.

Veleta north ridge (via Normal)

Grade F

Climb - Keeping as close to the cliff edge on the left as possible make an ascending traverse. There is sometimes sheet ice or verglas here and there have been accidents. Follow the edge L round to the summit (1½hrs).

Climb leftwards missing the initial rocks in the bottom half of the couloir. Attain the couloir and climb straight up. Steep but it has been frequently skied (by experts only!). This can be a very popular route.