Access

There are 3 main routes:

(1) Via the Hoya de Portillo ranger station above Capileira (3hrs) but depends on getting a car to the 2200m start point in the forest. Little ascent and the easiest route in good conditions.

(2) Via the Acequia route (3hrs). Not recommended if snow and ice below 2500m as this route will involve traversing angled slopes. Hard on the old feet!

(3) The Poqueira Gorge. From the electric station on up the valley head. Climb up to Cortijo thomas and then on up and left to the hut (4hrs). This is the most sheltered way in poor conditions.

Approach from Collado de Ciervo or Laguna de la Mosca. For the central corredor, go right and then trend back left to gain the central couloir (30-40deg). The main couloir (canuto) is 300m long and at 50-55 deg. Above this there is some mixed climbing before trending right to finish just right of the summit.

Routes

Mulhacen E face

Grade F

1st Ascent - Unknown

From Siete Lagunas. A easy snow ascent in a great area. 500m ascent to the summit up simple snow slopes. Has been used as a fast glissade off the summit but only in perfect snow conditions!

Mulhacen NE ridge (via Corredor de Siete Lagunas)

Grade AD- (Ave 50º)

1st Ascent - 17th January 1962 Francisco Olmedo Roelas/Angel Carretero/Jose Contreras/Emilio Ortiz

Approach via Siete Lagunas. Straightforward ascent. Sometimes easier, maybe PD.

Mulhacen N face routes

Grade AD/D (Ave 45º)