Access

By Car

From the main Granada ring road (Circunvalación) follow the well signposted mountain road to Sierra Nevada (A-395). This leads to the main ski resort at Pradollano. At km30 and just before entering the resort turn left following signs to Hoya de la Mora and Albergues de Granada. At km35 and at 2500m altitude, the road ends. There are car parks on either side of the road. This is the Hoya de la Mora.

After new snowfall the access road to the Hoya de la Mora can become blocked and is the last road to be cleared and opened by the ski lift company. In this case you can turn right at km31 and follow the signs to a large car park at Telesilla de las Nieves. This is a little below the Hoya de la Mora and necessitates a short uphill walk (30 mins) following the car park access road N for 100m before tuning S onto the main access road.

On weekends and fiestas this area can become heavily congested with families eager to toboggan down the slopes leading to the car parks. The police at times restrict numbers and close the road. An early start is essential.

Albergue Universitario Sierra Nevada

Telephone: +34 958 480 122 Website: www.alberguesierranevada.com/ Email: [email protected]

This guarded hostel is situated at 2500m near the Peñones de San Fransisco and adjacent to the Hoya de la Mora. Very useful if you want an early start to the mountaineering routes in the Coral del Veleta or if embarking on a long ski tour and only 300m away from the ice climbing at Cascada de los Militares

It is open all year, has serviced accommodation, restaurant, café, and a leisure lounge with a large fireplace.

Access to Borreguiles

Access for the next few routes all leave the Hoya de la Mora and ascend the broad NNW slopes of Veleta. Pass either side of the statue, “Virgen de las Nieves” and L of the chairlift station “Telesilla de la Virgin”. There are always plenty of trails and even the edges of the “Aguila” ski piste can be used to easily ascend to the 3100m northern shoulder of Veleta named “Posiciones del Veleta”. It is frequently very windy and icy hereabouts with huge cornices eastwards into the Corral del Veleta.

Descent from here back to the Hoya de la Mora in bad weather is easy. Just follow the outer edge of the ski pistes and reverse the route of ascent.

From Borreguiles make for Laguna de las Yeguas and head cross country towards Laguna Misterioso and the base of the ridge

The Route

From Laguna Misterioso (or the site of it under the snow) the obvious ridge ahead must be gained. This can be done by moving easily up and round to the right (north) or for more fun make for one of the ascent gullies. The ridge itself is generally well defined. Follow it round a succession of pinnacles and towers. Ridge crest has considerable exposure in places. There is a small 10m abseil onto a sloping slab followed by a rather awkward 20m chimney to climb (rock 4+). After that it is plain sailing to the summit. A really enjoyable route.

Please note the possible considerable avalanche danger in crossing the slopes below the Tajos de la Virgen ridge late afternoon!