Not too much water ice climbing as you might expect in this part of Spain. There are some icefalls on the NE face of Alcazaba (1hr approach from Siete Lagunas) usually in condition and some higher streams and barrancos on the northern side form good ice.

The nearest place to do some ice climbing is at the Hoya de la Mora above the ski centre. You have a 25m walk to the fall which is located below and east of the green military bunkhouse. The ice is named appropriately “la cascada de los militares “. This is often 30m in height containing 4 or 5 routes. The icefall is actually formed out of the overflow from the bunkhouse water and sewerage systems! Not as nasty as you might think but keep away from the coloured ice on the far left looking up!

Protection: fixed bolted chain at a couple of points. We have utilised the bunkhouse railings but the Guardia Civil get a little exciteable off with this, but you can always find some natural protection further back with a bit of resourcefulness.

The icefall is popular with the spanish who can monopolise the available protection. Advice is to start early or finish late. We have actually climbed on into the night via headtorches, an eerie experience!